BARCAROLLA RESTAURANT

Barcarolla is in the old settlement of Nikiti, the stone-built part of the village on the hillside above the coast. The kitchen does grilled meat and Mediterranean dishes; in the morning it works as a café serving brunch, and in the evening it serves cocktails. Prices are affordable.

The old settlement, with its 19th-century mansions and cobbled lanes, is worth a stroll before or after your meal, and it's cooler and quieter than the seafront. Nikiti beach is about three kilometres away, so you'll need a car for the sea.